The Stories from the Stones 20 - By Steve Lavender

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'Stories from the Stones'
Please visit the Contents Page for this section where you will find other 'Stories from the Stones.'

These same stories are also published on Penistone Archive Group's Facebook page, their Journal and in 'The Bridge' magazine issued by St John's church, Penistone. Many thanks to their tireless author, Mr Steve Lavender, for his worthy contributions to local history and this website. - JB.

Story 20 - Thomas Tomasson (1795 - 1864) and Catherine Tomasson (1795 - 1880)
From the St John’s Church Burial Ground Project

Growing up in Sheffield, I was lucky enough to have parents who loved the outdoors and travelling across Europe. And so, in 1965 we found ourselves on the train up to Zermatt when I caught sight of the most remarkable view I had seen in my life so far – the majestic Matterhorn. At the time, Zermatt was celebrating the 100th anniversary of its climbing by English mountaineer Edward Whymper. In due course I would write an essay on Whymper for my English O-Level and so began my interest in Victorian climbers.

I can hear you asking what on earth has this got to do with St John’s burial ground and the Tomasson family. Well, Thomas and Catherine were married at St John’s Church in 1827 and were living at Plumpton Lodge in Thurlstone where they operated a woollen mill employing 60 men, 20 boys and 40 women/girls. The cloth mill was known variously as Thomas’s Mill and Plumpton Mill. The couple had four children; Hugh, William, James and Anne.

Tomasson graves

Whilst the Tomasson family have quite a story to tell for now, we shall take a look at William’s family. William was born in Thurlstone in 1832 and married Sarah Anne Hopkinson in 1857 but by now had moved to Nottinghamshire and they had five children William Hugh, Beatrice, Helen, Thomas and John. Our research shows that William Hugh, amongst many achievements, became Sir William and had during 1879 been a Captain in the Zulu Wars. It is Beatrice however where we take this story.

Beatrice, the granddaughter of Thomas and Catherine who are buried at St John’s, was born on 25th April 1857 in Barnby Moor, Nottinghamshire and then moved with her family to a farm in Ireland. From here as a 22-year-old she became a Governess in Potsdam where she would translate literary works, but then around 1885 her interest in climbing came to the fore. Beatrice moved to Innsbruck where she became the governess to Edward Lisle Strutt (1874-1948) who was a soldier and mountaineer.

Strutt would become a member of the Austrian Alpine Club and Beatrice would accompany Strutt on his many and varied climbing expeditions. It is a sad fact that during this era of Victorian climbers, whilst there were quite a few lady climbers, their expeditions and successes are poorly reported. After spending a few seasons climbing in the Tyrol in 1896 she relocated to Cortina in the Dolomites where she concentrated her challenges. In 1897 she recorded first ascents with mountain guide Michele Bettega in the Pala range. In 1898 she recorded first ascents of an ice wall on Monte Zebru and in 1900 on the Dent di Mesdi South Face in Sella range, a first ascent at grade IV in July.

Here is an excerpt from a report in the Alpine Journal 2001 written by Hermann Reisach on Beatrice’s greatest success:

'1901. Her greatest adventure was the widely desired South Face of the Marmolada di Penia, with the guides Michele Bettega and Bartolo Zagonel. The Marmolada South Face is, in my view, the most prominent in the Dolomites. The ascent took twelve hours of climbing. Equipment consisted of ropes, pitons and specialist climbing shoes. They bivouacked at the foot of the wall to ensure an early start, there being then no huts on this side of the mountain except for the shepherd's hut on the Malga Ombretta. Two porters carried the nailed boots as well as warm clothing and champagne over the Fedaja glacier to the summit'

Beatrice continued climbing until the outbreak of the First World War when most mountain guides were required to fight and so ended this remarkable part of her life. From the above report in the Alpine Journal, we also have:

'Beatrice Tomasson was aged 42 when she climbed the Marmolada South Face. She remained a spinster until the age of 61. In spring of 1921 Beatrice married Patrick Chalmers Mackenzie, of Scottish gentry, in London. They moved to Mackenzie's estate, Little Benhams near Rusper, Sussex, where they spent the rest of their lives. Her husband died on 9th March 1944. Beatrice died on 13th February 1947, at the age of 87.'

Edward Whymper died in 1911 and I would like to think that there might have been a point at which their climbing paths might have crossed. Whymper wrote a wonderful book called 'Scrambles amongst the Alps 1860-1869' which is a beautifully written account of his climbing exploits, including the triumph and tragedy of the first ascent of the Matterhorn when after successfully achieving the summit four of the team were lost on the descent.

I would like to finish this story with Whymper’s words from his book which have remained with me since I first read them as a schoolboy:

'Climb if you will, but remember that courage and strength are nought without prudence, and a momentary negligence may destroy the happiness of a lifetime. Do nothing in haste, look well to each step; and from the beginning think what may be the end.'

We will remember Thomas and Catherine Tomasson and their grand-daughter Beatrice.
S.J.Lavender, Chair. Friends of St John’s Church. Penistone.
July 2023

With reference and thanks to Reisach Hermann; Alpine Journal 2001; Whymper Edward; Scrambles amongst the Alps 1871


Further Reading on the Tomassons
A search of JN Dransfield's 'History of Penistone' returns no fewer than 32 entries for the distinguished name of Tomasson, on six pages, although most of them were in connection with the local hunt. Here are a few points of interest:


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